Is the Menswear at the Women’s Collections More Entertaining? An Examensement

Is the Menswear at the Women's Collections More Entertaining? An Examensement

by Henry
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After the spring 2023 ready-to-wear season, I began covering the menswear trends at the women’s collections. The debut of Simone Rocha’s menswear line was included in that first report, along with sporadic male looks that were shown on the women’s runways of Blumarine, Molly Goddard, and Collina Strada, among others. The pieces featured in the “men’s at women’s” roundup were taken from the women’s collections and provided a basic complementing appearance or a men’s alternative to the women’s concept, which remained the major focus of the show.

In the present day, designers such as McQueen, Etro, and Versace have incorporated menswear into their ready-to-wear collections. These styles are become fashion statements in and of themselves, going beyond the occasional masculine parody of women’s messaging. Rather than restricting menswear to the role of the sidekick, the inclusion of womenswear alongside these male ensembles allows it to take center stage as the assortment’s bearer of fun and directed ideas. It was recently noted by a colleague who covers menswear almost entirely that it was now impossible to miss the ready-to-wear displays. Simply put, there is too much menswear on the women’s runways for it not to be covered with equal seriousness.

According to my autumn 2024 menswear trend report, the story at the men’s collections was that classic masculinity was making a comeback. The autumn 2024 ready-to-wear collections’ male styles build upon the trends we saw in January, but they have a friskier vibe. With bodycon shapes at Mugler, Marni, and Vetements, the sleek, slim profile advocated by Dries Van Noten and Junya Wantabe has been taken to extremes. The iconic men’s collection ties have evolved into sexy bows, and rounder forms and frilly embellishments highlight the softer side of menswear. The thigh-high boots and fetishwear, such as the bondage details at Thom Browne and the leather aprons at Luar, transform the seriousness of the January shows into a cheekier, less serious realm. Nine menswear trends from the fall 2024 ready-to-wear shows can be found by scrolling through.

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